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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.